For use with a PC or Mac using the SyncMouse

NOTE: If international on 220VAC at 50 cycles, you will need a
transformer that outputs 110-120VAC at 250 watts.

After unpackaging the unit, place on a sturdy and stable surface.
The end with the condenser lens should allow for a tripod to be placed
about a meter or less from the unit with clearance enough
for the tripod legs. The tripod should have an adjustable height via
a column and the head should allow for seperate horizon and tilt functions.
Ball-head tripods should be avoided.

First, install the condenser lens.
(glass should be cleaned with non-alcohol products and a clean, cotton cloth)

Next, connect the cables as shown.

The white cable is from the special sync-mouse provided.
The large multi-pin cable is found coiled in the back of the projector.
 

Next, load some film into the unit as shown and
switch on the power.

With the motor switch "off", turn the control knob
to the play position to close the gate.
 

Run the motor switch briefly to seat the film and to proceed to a
bright, well exposed frame.

Make sure the selector switch on the WorkPrinter is in the middle (off) position.

Make sure your camera is not set to any "auto shutter" or “steady shot” positions.  At a minimum, 60th of a second speed should be used for NTSC or 50th of a second for PAL. Higher shutter speeds will make setting the timing on this unit easier.

NOTE: If using an HD camera in the SD mode, you will need to set your shutter speed to 1/500th of a second or higher
to overcome the latency inherent in CMOS imaging chips.
 

Avoid using progressive scan or "frame mode". Just the normal interlaced video mode is needed. Best results and best registration is achieved if your film has been freshly cleaned and lubed with good splices and no torn sprocket holes. Supply reels should be inspected for warpage or anything that will impede the even feed of film from the reel. Feed reels that bind or grab the edges of the film may cause registration problems or even film damage. Head leader should be fairly straight without a lot of "curl memory" that will impede proper loading.
 

Various films have different frame line placements. To make minor adjustments
in the vertical positioning of the frame, use the adjustable foot at the front of
the projector as shown.

Position the camera about 2.5 feet from the lens. Look at the monitor
for distortion of the image. If there is curvature of the image top and bottom
then you need to adjust the focus knob of the projector to correct.  This will make the image
go out of focus, which is normal. Always reclaim your focus using the camera lens.
Never use the projector focus knob to adjust focus. The projector
focus knob should only be used to correct for distortion.

Ultimately, there is little I can tell you here about how to set your focus as every camera is different. You will have to experiment with your set up until you get it right. I can tell you that you should be able to get it sharp edge to edge with no chromatic aberrations and no distortion or pin cushion. Just remember that you have several ways to attenuate the image by using the projector focus and camera focus in combination. Once you feel you have achieved the desired result, zoom your camera in to rid the image of the edges of the gate and refocus. The image should be sharp edge to edge and corner to corner with no hot spot nor any chromatic aberrations. If the edge of the frame goes dark when you zoom in, just adjust the placement of the camera side to side (not panning, but actually moving the camera) ever so slightly until you restore even illumination.

Exposure can be adjusted using the PRESET knob.

To begin capture, launch your capture software and verify that you have an image
in the capture window. Type the appropriate file information and then
place the cursor over the capture button and leave it there.
Turn on the motor switch to start the projector running. Then turn on
the sync switch to the "SYNC MOUSE" position.
The on-screen capture button should begin "clicking" on its own.

After capture, review the footage on regular television monitor to look for pulldown
blur. A computer monitor should be avoided for critical review during this process
because computers and macs will notoriously drop a field to accomodate
the display of interlaced video. If you have pulldown blur that exists on a field
that is beind dropped, you will not see it. But you will see it on regular interlaced
television monitor.

Pulldown blur is caused because the film was captured during motion instead of
stationary in the gate. Every camera/computer combination has a slightly different
timing characteristic so there is no way for us to "pre-set" the timing.

To adjust the timing, remove the back cover by taking out the various screws
 edge of the cover. Near the front you will see a small timing disk.
To get to the timing disk set screw, you may need to rotate the motor pulley;

Loosen using a small hex head wrench.

Once you loosen the screw, turn the timing disk on the shaft to a new position.

Re-tighten the set screw to hold the new position. Do not over-tighten
or you will crack the plastic timing disk.

Repeat a capture and then review the file to look for pulldown blur, etc.

If your timing is set correctly, you will have no noticable pulldown blur.
If your timing is set incorrectly, you will have blur that comes and goes randomly.
It is not unusual to have to turn the timing disk almost 360 degrees from the
initial position. Again, there is no "pre-set" position. Every set up is different.

As noted on the website, your Mac or PC should have three drives. One drive should
be your system drive and the other two should form a Raid-0 drive array. All should
be internal and no external capture drives should be used. SATA drives should be
avoided for your Raid for best results, if possible. Make sure that all other programs
are shut down during the capture process. No screen savers, no minimized programs,
no active network cards, etc.

Once you have your timing set, you can then capture and process the files through
your software for speed changes, etc or you can do it on your NLE afterwards.

If you need, you can reduce the speed of the WorkPrinter by changing belt position.
To lower the speed, remove the back cover and locate the motor drive pulley.
Use the same hex head wrench to loosen the set screw.

Slide the pulley toward the motor and move the belt
to the smaller groove. Make sure the belt is straight and gently,
but firmly, tighten the set screw.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions! 830-966-4664

Roger